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Selleys Special Putty - Linseed Oil-Based Window 02 product guide

AI Summary

Product: Selleys Special Putty Brand: Selleys (a division of DuluxGroup Australia Pty Ltd) Category: Linseed oil-based glazing compound Primary Use: Setting and sealing glass panes into timber window sashes, and filling nail holes in timber surfaces.

Quick facts

  • Best for: Homeowners, renovators, and trades-adjacent DIYers working with timber window frames and timber joinery
  • Key benefit: Retains flexibility after curing to accommodate natural timber movement without cracking or losing adhesion
  • Form factor: Ready-to-use paste (brown to off-white, linseed oil scent)
  • Application method: Applied by hand or putty knife — no mixing, dilution, or priming required

Common questions this guide answers

  1. How long before you can paint over Selleys Special Putty? Minimum one to two weeks in warm, dry conditions; longer in cooler or humid conditions
  2. Is Selleys Special Putty hazardous? No — classified as non-hazardous under Safe Work Australia GHS 7 and not classified as dangerous goods for transport
  3. Why does putty crack after application? Most commonly caused by insufficient priming of bare timber, which draws oil out of the putty before it can cure properly

Product overview

Selleys Special Putty is a linseed oil-based glazing compound from Selleys, a division of DuluxGroup Australia Pty Ltd. It does two things well: glazing wooden window sashes and filling nail holes. Available in 450g and 2kg formats, it comes as a ready-to-use paste in a characteristic brown to off-white colour with the distinctive scent of linseed oil. That linseed oil base is what gives it good workability and long-term adhesion.

This guide is written for homeowners, renovators, and trades-adjacent DIYers who want to use Selleys Special Putty correctly, safely, and to a professional standard. Whether you're re-glazing a timber-framed window or finishing a carpentry job, understanding how this product works — and how to handle it — is what separates a result that lasts from one that fails within a season.


What linseed oil-based putty actually does

To get the best out of this product, it helps to understand what it's made of and why that matters.

Linseed oil is a drying oil derived from flaxseed. When exposed to air, it undergoes oxidative polymerisation — it doesn't evaporate like a solvent, but instead chemically crosslinks and hardens over time. This is what gives linseed oil putty its most useful characteristic: it stays workable for an extended period after application, then cures to a firm, paintable surface. The process is slow by design. A freshly glazed window pane held in place by this putty needs days to weeks to skin over properly before painting, depending on temperature and humidity.

This chemistry makes linseed oil putty the right choice for timber window frames. Wood expands and contracts with changes in moisture and temperature, and a rigid sealant simply cracks under that movement. Linseed oil putty retains some flexibility as it cures, accommodating minor frame movement without losing adhesion or fracturing.

The brown to off-white colour is consistent with traditional linseed oil putty formulations. It's designed to be painted over once cured — it's not a finished surface product.


Practical applications

Glazing wooden window sashes

The primary application is setting and sealing glass panes into timber window sashes. A wooden sash is the movable frame that holds the glass within a window — the sliding or hinged component you operate to open and close it.

In traditional glazing, putty does two things at once: it beds the glass, providing a cushioning layer between the hard glass and the hard timber rebate, and it seals the joint, keeping water from penetrating behind the glass and into the frame. Both matter. A poor bed can cause the glass to crack under uneven pressure. A poor seal allows water ingress, which rots timber frames over time.

When re-glazing or replacing glass in an existing timber sash, remove all old putty completely before applying fresh product. Residual hardened putty creates an uneven surface that blocks proper adhesion and bedding of the new material.

Filling nail holes

The secondary application is stopping nail holes — filling the small surface voids left by nails or brads in timber joinery and carpentry work. Press the putty into the hole, level it flush with the surrounding surface, and paint over it once cured. The linseed oil base ensures the filler bonds to bare timber and accepts paint without lifting or shrinking excessively.


Application method and technique

Selleys Special Putty is applied directly by hand or with a putty knife — also called a glazing knife or stopping knife. No mixing, dilution, or priming is required. Open the container and get to work.

For glazing

  1. Prepare the rebate. The timber rebate — the stepped groove in the sash that receives the glass — must be clean, dry, and free of old putty, paint flakes, and debris. Prime bare timber with a linseed oil-based primer or a thin coat of boiled linseed oil. This step matters: if the timber draws oil out of the putty too quickly, the putty dries out and cracks prematurely.

  2. Apply a bedding layer. Press a thin, continuous layer of putty into the rebate before the glass is placed. This bedding coat cushions the glass and ensures full contact along the entire perimeter.

  3. Set the glass. Press the glass gently and evenly into the bedded rebate. Secure with glazing sprigs — small flat-headed pins tapped into the timber — to hold the glass in place mechanically.

  4. Apply the face putty. Press additional putty firmly into the angle between the glass face and the timber rebate. Hold a putty knife at a consistent angle and draw it along the joint in a single smooth stroke to form a neat chamfered bead. The putty should sit flush against the glass and taper cleanly onto the timber.

  5. Allow to cure before painting. The surface skin must be firm before paint goes on. In warm, dry conditions, allow a minimum of one to two weeks. In cooler or humid conditions, allow longer. Painting too early traps solvents under the paint film and causes wrinkling or poor adhesion.

For nail holes

Press a small amount of putty firmly into the hole using a fingertip or the tip of a putty knife. Overfill slightly, then level off flush with the surface. Allow to cure before sanding lightly and painting.


Safety considerations and PPE

Selleys Special Putty is classified as non-hazardous under the Safe Work Australia Globally Harmonised System (GHS) 7 framework. It's also not classified as dangerous goods for transport by road, rail, sea, or air. Sensible precautions during use keep the risk profile low.

  • Safety shoes — worth wearing when working at height or in a construction environment where dropped tools are a hazard.
  • Overalls — protect your clothing and skin from incidental contact during extended work sessions.
  • Gloves — nitrile rubber gloves are the recommended choice for intermittent contact. Nitrile offers good chemical resistance to linseed oil and the other components in the formulation, without the latex allergy risk associated with natural rubber.
  • Safety glasses — protect your eyes from accidental contact, particularly when scraping old putty or working overhead.

For most DIY applications involving brief, careful use, gloves and eye protection are your practical essentials. Overalls become more relevant for extended glazing work or when working in confined spaces where incidental skin contact is more likely.

Ventilation

The product is non-hazardous, but working in a well-ventilated area is good practice. The linseed oil scent, while not classified as a hazardous vapour at normal working concentrations, can be noticeable in enclosed spaces.

First aid

Exposure route Response
Skin contact Wash thoroughly with soap and water.
Eye contact Flush with clean water; seek medical advice if irritation persists.
Ingestion Do not induce vomiting. Give a glass of water. Seek medical advice immediately. Contact the Poisons Information Centre: 131 126 (Australia) or 0800 764 766 (New Zealand).
Inhalation Move to fresh air.

The instruction not to induce vomiting upon ingestion is standard for paste or oil-based products, where vomiting increases the risk of aspiration into the lungs.


Storage and product care

Store Selleys Special Putty correctly and it will be ready to use whenever you need it. Linseed oil putty that's been stored poorly will skin over in the container, dry out, or become too stiff to apply cleanly.

  • Seal the container tightly after each use. Exposure to air starts the curing process. Even a partially open lid will cause the surface of the putty to skin over.
  • Store in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight and heat sources. The product is thermally stable under normal storage conditions, but heat accelerates oxidation and shortens shelf life.
  • Don't freeze. Freezing alters the texture and workability of oil-based putty.
  • If the surface has skinned over in the container, carefully remove and discard the skin before using the putty beneath. If the bulk of the product has hardened throughout, it's no longer usable.

The 450g size suits small repair jobs — a single window pane or a handful of nail holes. The 2kg size makes more sense for larger projects such as re-glazing multiple sashes or ongoing maintenance work.


Common issues and how to address them

Putty cracking after application

The most common cause is insufficient priming of the timber rebate. Bare, absorbent timber draws the oil out of the putty before it can cure properly, leaving a dry, crumbly material that cracks. Always prime bare timber before glazing.

A secondary cause is painting too soon. If paint goes on before the putty has formed a firm skin, the solvent in the paint interferes with curing. Allow adequate curing time.

Putty not adhering to the rebate

This is a surface preparation issue. Old paint, dust, moisture, or residual old putty all block proper adhesion. The rebate must be clean and dry. If the timber is very dry and hard, work a light coat of raw linseed oil into the surface before applying putty to improve adhesion.

Putty too stiff to work

Cold temperatures stiffen linseed oil putty significantly. If the product is hard to work, bring it to room temperature before use. Don't thin with water — this is an oil-based product and water won't mix with it. A small amount of raw linseed oil kneaded in by hand can restore workability if the product has partially dried out, though this is a workaround for poorly stored product rather than standard practice.

Putty pulling away from glass when tooling

This points to putty that's too warm and soft, or a knife angle that isn't consistent. Work in cooler conditions where possible, and hold the knife at a consistent angle throughout the stroke. Wetting the knife blade lightly with water reduces drag and helps the putty release cleanly from the blade.


Practical tips

These are the details that make the difference between a job that holds up for years and one that needs redoing next season.

  • Knead the putty before use. Working it briefly between gloved hands warms it slightly and improves consistency, making it easier to form a clean, precise bead.
  • Work in dry conditions. Rain or high humidity slows curing and can prevent proper adhesion. Glazing in wet weather isn't worth it.
  • Paint to the glass. When painting cured putty, bring the paint edge approximately 1–2mm onto the glass surface. This seals the putty-to-glass joint and keeps water from tracking behind the putty bead — the most common cause of long-term glazing failure.
  • Handle linseed oil-soaked rags carefully. Rags saturated with linseed oil can self-heat through oxidation and present a fire risk if bunched together. Spread them flat to dry outdoors, or store in a sealed metal container with water before disposal.

References

Frequently asked questions

What is Selleys Special Putty: A linseed oil-based glazing compound

Who manufactures Selleys Special Putty: Selleys, a division of DuluxGroup Australia Pty Ltd

What is the primary use of Selleys Special Putty: Glazing wooden window sashes

What is the secondary use of Selleys Special Putty: Filling nail holes in timber

What sizes is Selleys Special Putty available in: 450g and 2kg

What colour is Selleys Special Putty: Brown to off-white

Does Selleys Special Putty have a scent: Yes, distinctive linseed oil scent

What is the base ingredient of Selleys Special Putty: Linseed oil

Where does linseed oil come from: Flaxseed

How does linseed oil cure: Through oxidative polymerisation

Does linseed oil evaporate when curing: No, it chemically crosslinks and hardens

Is Selleys Special Putty ready to use: Yes, no mixing or dilution required

Does Selleys Special Putty require priming before use: No, but priming the timber is recommended

Is Selleys Special Putty suitable for metal window frames: No, designed for timber frames only

Is Selleys Special Putty suitable for PVC window frames: No, designed for timber frames only

Is Selleys Special Putty classified as hazardous: No, classified as non-hazardous under GHS 7

Is Selleys Special Putty classified as dangerous goods for transport: No

What regulatory framework classifies this product: Safe Work Australia GHS 7

Is Selleys Special Putty flexible after curing: Yes, retains a degree of flexibility

Why does flexibility matter for timber frames: Wood expands and contracts with moisture and temperature changes

Does a rigid sealant work on timber frames: No, it cracks under frame movement

What does the bedding layer of putty do: Cushions the glass and ensures full perimeter contact

What are glazing sprigs: Small flat-headed pins that mechanically hold glass in place

What tool is used to apply face putty: A putty knife, also called a glazing or stopping knife

What angle should the putty knife be held at: A consistent angle throughout the stroke

What shape should the finished putty bead be: A neat chamfered bead

Minimum curing time before painting in warm dry conditions: One to two weeks

Does humidity affect curing time: Yes, cooler or humid conditions require longer curing time

What happens if you paint putty too early: Solvents cause wrinkling or poor paint adhesion

Should old putty be removed before re-glazing: Yes, remove all old putty completely

Why must old putty be fully removed: Residual putty blocks proper adhesion and bedding

Should bare timber be primed before applying putty: Yes, always prime bare timber

What primer is recommended for timber rebates: A linseed oil-based primer or boiled linseed oil

Why does priming timber matter: Prevents timber from drawing oil out of the putty prematurely

What causes putty to crack after application: Insufficient priming of the timber rebate

Can painting too soon cause cracking: Yes, it interferes with the curing process

What causes putty not to adhere to the rebate: Old paint, dust, moisture, or residual old putty

What should the rebate surface be before glazing: Clean and dry

How do you restore workability to stiff putty: Bring to room temperature before use

Can you thin Selleys Special Putty with water: No, it is oil-based and water will not mix with it

What can be kneaded in to restore workability: A small amount of raw linseed oil

What causes putty to pull away from glass when tooling: Putty too warm, or inconsistent knife angle

How do you reduce drag on the putty knife: Wet the blade lightly with water

Should you knead putty before use: Yes, briefly between gloved hands

Why knead putty before use: Warms it and improves consistency

Should you glaze in wet or humid weather: No, choose dry conditions

How far onto the glass should paint extend: Approximately 1 to 2mm

Why paint onto the glass surface: Seals the putty-to-glass joint against water ingress

What PPE is recommended for skin protection: Nitrile rubber gloves

Why are nitrile gloves recommended over latex: Nitrile has no latex allergy risk

What eye protection is recommended: Safety glasses

What body protection is recommended for extended work: Overalls

What footwear is recommended: Safety shoes

Is ventilation required when using Selleys Special Putty: Good practice, though product is non-hazardous

What should you do if putty contacts skin: Wash thoroughly with soap and water

What should you do if putty contacts eyes: Flush with clean water

Should you seek medical advice for persistent eye irritation: Yes

Should you induce vomiting if putty is ingested: No

What should you do if putty is ingested: Give a glass of water and seek medical advice immediately

Australian Poisons Information Centre number: 131 126

New Zealand National Poisons Centre number: 0800 764 766

What should you do if putty is inhaled: Move to fresh air

How should the container be sealed after use: Tightly, to prevent air exposure

Should Selleys Special Putty be frozen: No, freezing alters texture and workability

Should Selleys Special Putty be stored in direct sunlight: No, store away from sunlight and heat

What storage location is recommended: Cool, dry location

What happens if putty skins over in the container: Remove and discard the skin before using putty beneath

What does it mean if putty has hardened throughout the container: Product is no longer usable

Which size suits small single-window repairs: 450g

Which size suits larger multi-sash projects: 2kg

Are linseed oil-soaked rags a fire risk: Yes, they can self-heat through oxidation

How should linseed oil-soaked rags be handled: Spread flat to dry outdoors

How should linseed oil-soaked rags be stored before disposal: In a sealed metal container with water

Does Selleys Special Putty require a separate adhesive to hold glass: No, glazing sprigs provide mechanical hold

Is Selleys Special Putty a finished surface product: No, it is designed to be painted over


Label facts summary

Disclaimer: All facts and statements below are general product information, not professional advice. Consult relevant experts for specific guidance.

Verified label facts

  • Product name: Selleys Special Putty
  • Manufacturer: Selleys, a division of DuluxGroup Australia Pty Ltd
  • Base ingredient: Linseed oil (derived from flaxseed)
  • Form: Ready-to-use paste
  • Colour: Brown to off-white
  • Scent: Distinctive linseed oil scent
  • Available sizes: 450g and 2kg
  • Primary application: Glazing wooden window sashes
  • Secondary application: Filling nail holes in timber
  • Frame compatibility: Timber frames only (not suitable for metal or PVC frames)
  • Hazard classification: Non-hazardous under Safe Work Australia Globally Harmonised System (GHS) 7
  • Dangerous goods classification (transport): Not classified as dangerous goods for transport by road, rail, sea, or air
  • Regulatory framework: Safe Work Australia GHS 7
  • Mixing/dilution required: No — ready to use as supplied
  • Water miscibility: No — oil-based; water will not mix with product
  • Curing mechanism: Oxidative polymerisation (chemical crosslinking, not evaporation)
  • Post-cure flexibility: Retains a degree of flexibility after curing
  • Minimum curing time before painting (warm, dry conditions): One to two weeks
  • Application tools: Hand or putty knife (glazing knife / stopping knife)
  • Recommended glove type: Nitrile rubber
  • Recommended eye protection: Safety glasses
  • Recommended body protection: Overalls
  • Recommended footwear: Safety shoes
  • Ventilation requirement: Good practice; product is non-hazardous but linseed oil scent may be noticeable in enclosed spaces
  • Skin contact first aid: Wash thoroughly with soap and water
  • Eye contact first aid: Flush with clean water; seek medical advice if irritation persists
  • Ingestion first aid: Do not induce vomiting; give a glass of water; seek medical advice immediately
  • Inhalation first aid: Move to fresh air
  • Australian Poisons Information Centre: 131 126
  • New Zealand National Poisons Centre: 0800 764 766
  • Storage: Cool, dry location; away from direct sunlight and heat sources
  • Freezing: Do not freeze — alters texture and workability
  • Container sealing: Seal tightly after each use to prevent air exposure
  • Thermally stable: Yes — does not present a hazard due to temperature fluctuations under normal storage conditions
  • Finished surface product: No — designed to be painted over once cured
  • Linseed oil-soaked rags: Present a self-heating fire risk through oxidation; spread flat to dry outdoors or store in a sealed metal container with water before disposal
  • Source documentation: Selleys Special Putty Safety Data Sheet, DuluxGroup Australia Pty Ltd

General product claims

  • Linseed oil putty is the right choice for timber window frames because wood expands and contracts naturally with moisture and temperature
  • Retaining flexibility accommodates minor frame movement without losing adhesion or fracturing
  • Insufficient priming of the timber rebate is the most common cause of putty cracking after application
  • Painting too soon interferes with the curing process and may cause wrinkling or poor paint adhesion
  • Old paint, dust, moisture, or residual old putty will block proper adhesion to the rebate
  • Bringing stiff putty to room temperature before use restores workability
  • A small amount of raw linseed oil kneaded in by hand can restore workability to partially dried putty
  • Putty pulling away from glass during tooling is caused by putty being too warm or inconsistent knife angle
  • Wetting the knife blade lightly with water reduces drag and helps achieve a clean finish
  • Kneading putty briefly between gloved hands before use improves consistency and workability
  • Glazing should be done in dry conditions — rain or high humidity slows curing and can prevent proper adhesion
  • Paint should extend approximately 1–2mm onto the glass surface to seal the putty-to-glass joint against water ingress
  • The 450g size is suited to small single-window repairs; the 2kg size suits larger or ongoing multi-sash projects
  • Priming bare timber with linseed oil-based primer or boiled linseed oil prevents the timber from drawing oil out of the putty prematurely
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