How to Fill Cracks and Holes in Walls and Plasterboard: A Step-by-Step Selleys Guide product guide

AI Summary

Product: Selleys Wall Repair Filler Range (Spakfilla Rapid, No More Cracks Plaster Filler, Spakfilla Heavy Duty, Spakfilla Wall Repair Kit) Brand: Selleys Australia Category: Wall Fillers and Repair Products Primary Use: Filling cracks, holes, dents, and voids in walls and plasterboard prior to painting in Australian residential and commercial buildings.

Quick Facts

• Best For: Homeowners and DIYers repairing settlement cracks, nail holes, impact damage, and plasterboard voids before interior or exterior painting
• Key Benefit: Matching the right product to the damage size, then layering, feathering, and priming properly, produces repairs that don't re-crack
• Form Factor: Ready-mixed paste (Spakfilla Rapid, Heavy Duty, No More Cracks); all-in-one kit with mesh patch, filler, spatula, and sanding block (Wall Repair Kit)
• Application Method: Pressed into prepared surface with flexible spatula, feathered with progressively wider knife, sanded once dry, then primed before painting

Common Questions This Guide Answers

1. Which Selleys filler should I use for my crack size? → Spakfilla Rapid for hairline cracks under 1 mm; No More Cracks Plaster Filler for 1–3 mm cracks in plaster or plasterboard; Spakfilla Heavy Duty in 6 mm layers for 3–5 mm repairs; Wall Repair Kit for holes up to 80 mm requiring backing support
2. How long does Selleys filler need to dry before painting? → Thin applications of Spakfilla Rapid and No More Cracks Plaster Filler are ready for water-based paint in approximately 30 minutes; Spakfilla Heavy Duty requires 2–3 hours per 6 mm layer; all products require 24 hours before oil-based paint
3. Do I need to prime over filled repairs before painting? → Yes, always; filler and plasterboard are more porous than surrounding painted surfaces, and skipping primer causes patchy absorption, uneven sheen, and risk of adhesion failure

How to fill cracks and holes in walls and plasterboard: a step-by-step Selleys guide

Every painting project in Australia hits the same wall — literally. Before a single drop of paint goes on, the surface needs to be sound. For most homes, that means dealing with the cracks, nail holes, dents, and voids that accumulate over years of habitation and the natural movement of the building itself.

Cracking is the most common wall defect in Australian buildings, and it's no coincidence. Settlement cracks form as a building beds into its foundations over the first few years after construction, and they're especially common on reactive clay soils across Melbourne, Adelaide, and parts of Sydney and Brisbane. Even newer homes aren't immune — expect settlement cracks to appear within the first two to five years. They're entirely normal, driven by expansion and contraction from temperature swings, rain, soil conditions, earth movement, and the weight of the structure above.

Australia's climate makes this worse. Drought cycles, heavy rainfall, and La Niña and El Niño events all create expansion-contraction cycles in the soil that push and pull foundations. Because those cycles are intensifying, more Australian homes are reporting structural movement every year.

The good news: cracks up to 5 mm can be patched and painted with confidence. What separates a professional-looking result from a patch that re-cracks in six months isn't the effort applied — it's choosing the right Selleys product for the damage size and following a disciplined technique that respects drying times and surface preparation. This guide gives you that complete workflow.

Before you start: is the crack cosmetic or structural?

Not every crack gets filled and painted over. Applying Spakfilla over an active structural crack is one of the most common DIY mistakes — the filler will re-crack within weeks because the substrate beneath it is still moving.

Run through this quick assessment before reaching for any product:

Understanding why cracks form matters when deciding whether a crack is cosmetic or structural. Foundation movement is one of the most serious causes and should never be ignored — it can be triggered by reactive soil movement, poor site drainage, tree roots drawing moisture from the soil, and nearby excavation or renovations.

Rule of thumb: If a crack has appeared suddenly, runs diagonally from a door or window corner, or shows visible displacement — one side higher than the other — stop and arrange a building inspection before filling. For everything else, read on.

Choosing the right Selleys product for each repair

The Selleys wall repair range is tiered by repair depth, substrate type, and drying speed. Picking the wrong product — even within the same brand — is a primary cause of repair failure. (For a broader decision-making framework covering gap fillers and wood fillers as well, see our guide on Wall Filler vs. Wood Filler vs. Gap Filler: Which Selleys Product Do You Actually Need?)

Selleys Spakfilla Rapid — for hairline cracks, nail holes, and minor surface defects

Spakfilla Rapid is a ready-mixed, lightweight, quick-setting filler designed for both interior and exterior use. It's fast drying, virtually non-shrinking, non-cracking, and needs only one application.

Key properties:

• Single application; non-cracking; virtually non-shrinking
• Sandable and paintable with water-based paints once set — approximately 30 minutes in thin applications
• Oil-based paints: allow 24 hours before painting
• Moisture and mould resistant

Best for: Nail holes, pin holes, hairline cracks, minor surface scratches. This is the everyday go-to for pre-paint touch-ups.

Selleys No More Cracks Plaster Filler — for fine-to-medium cracks in plaster and plasterboard

No More Cracks Plaster Filler is a fast-drying, lightweight filler for interior plaster, plasterboard, and wallboards. It has excellent adhesion on plaster and minimal shrinkage, so there's no need to overfill.

Key properties:

• Ready to use; fast drying; lightweight; sandable in 30 minutes (thin applications); minimum shrinkage; water clean-up; interior use only
• Suitable for plaster, plasterboard, and wallboard; handles holes, cracks, chips, and dents
• Allow 30 minutes to dry for thin applications; allow 24 hours before solvent-based paints

Best for: Fine to medium cracks (1–3 mm), chips, dents, and shallow holes in plaster or plasterboard. The strong plaster adhesion makes this the better choice over general-purpose fillers when working on traditional plaster walls.

Selleys Spakfilla Heavy Duty — for deeper repairs, exterior-capable fills, and multi-substrate use

Spakfilla Heavy Duty is a multi-purpose, light grey ready-mixed filler suitable for plaster, brick, concrete, wood, masonry, stone, and primed metal surfaces.

Key properties:

• For deeper cracks, apply in 6 mm layers, allowing each layer to dry before the next
• Sand back any excess filler after drying — 2–3 hours for 2 mm applications
• Oil-based paints: not recommended until 24 hours after application; water-based paints may be used immediately after the filler has set

Best for: Medium-to-deep repairs (3–6 mm per layer), multi-substrate repairs, and situations where a harder, more durable fill is required.

Selleys Spakfilla Wall Repair Kit — for large holes requiring backing support

An all-in-one kit — patch, filler, spatula, sanding block — that repairs holes and cracks up to approximately 80 mm wide. It uses Spakfilla Rapid for the fill, with a mesh patch providing reinforcement for large repairs. Suitable for interior walls, ceilings, and plasterboard.

A patch is needed for holes greater than 25 mm wide, and surfaces must be clean and dry before you start.

Best for: Doorknob holes, large impact voids, and plasterboard damage where there's no solid substrate behind the hole to support the filler.

What you'll need: tools and materials

Before starting any wall repair, assemble the following:

• Flexible filling spatula or putty knife (50 mm for small repairs, 100–150 mm for feathering)
• Utility knife or scraper (for cleaning out loose material)
• Fine-grit sandpaper — 120–180 grit to smooth the area after filler has dried
• Sanding block or sanding sponge
• Damp cloth or tack cloth (for dust removal)
• Selleys Sugar Soap (for pre-paint surface cleaning)
• Appropriate Selleys filler (see product guide above)
• Primer (water-based, suitable for plaster or plasterboard)
• Dust mask and eye protection

Step-by-step: how to fill cracks and holes in walls and plasterboard

Step 1: Assess and classify the damage

Before opening any filler, know what you're dealing with. Run your finger along the crack. Is the plaster loose or hollow-sounding when tapped? If so, the plaster key has failed and loose material must come out before you fill anything. Is the crack wider than 5 mm or showing displacement? Refer to the structural assessment table above.

For plasterboard specifically: it forms the interior walls and ceilings of most modern homes and, while durable, it's susceptible to damage from impacts, wear, and building settlement. The repair technique depends on the size and nature of the damage, so knowing what you're working with determines which product you reach for.

Step 2: Prepare the surface

This is the step most DIYers rush — and the one that determines whether the repair lasts.

1. Remove all loose material. Use a utility knife or scraper to open the crack slightly and clear out any loose plaster, paint flakes, or debris. Widening the crack a little creates a clean edge and gives the filler something to grip.
2. Dust and clean the area. Remove all dust with a soft brush, then wipe with a damp cloth. Allow to dry completely.
3. Check for glossy surfaces. If the area around the repair is heavily painted and glossy, lightly sand it with 120-grit paper to create a mechanical bond for the filler.
4. Confirm the surface is dry. Filling over damp plaster is a primary cause of adhesion failure.

Step 3: Apply the correct filler for the damage size

For hairline cracks and nail holes (< 2 mm)

1. Scoop a small amount of Selleys Spakfilla Rapid onto the spatula.
2. Press the filler firmly into the crack or hole and smooth off flush with the surface — no need to overfill.
3. Because Spakfilla Rapid is virtually non-shrinking, a flush application is all it takes. Don't dome the filler above the surface.
4. Ready to sand and paint with water-based paints once set — approximately 30 minutes in thin applications.

For fine-to-medium cracks (2–5 mm) in plaster or plasterboard

1. Apply Selleys No More Cracks Plaster Filler using a flexible spatula.
2. Press filler firmly into the full depth of the crack, not just across the surface.
3. Smooth flush with the surrounding wall. Due to minimal shrinkage, avoid overfilling.
4. Allow 30 minutes to dry for thin applications. In humid conditions or deeper fills, allow additional time before sanding or painting.

For deeper repairs (> 5 mm) using Spakfilla Heavy Duty

Apply in 6 mm layers, allowing each layer to dry fully before the next. This isn't optional. If you don't let each coat dry completely, the repair will crack, shrink, or look uneven. Patience here pays off.

For a crack requiring two or more layers:

1. Apply the first 6 mm layer. Allow to dry fully (2–3 hours at room temperature).
2. Apply the second layer, slightly proud of the surface.
3. Once dry, sand back flush.

For large holes (25 mm–80 mm) using the Spakfilla Wall Repair Kit

1. Clean and dry the hole perimeter. Remove any loose plasterboard paper facing.
2. Apply the adhesive mesh patch from the kit over the hole, pressing firmly to the wall.
3. Apply Spakfilla Rapid from the kit over the mesh in a thin first coat, forcing it into the mesh weave.
4. Allow to dry fully. Apply a second coat, feathering the edges out onto the surrounding wall.
5. For holes larger than 25 mm, the patch provides the structural backing that filler alone can't deliver.

Step 4: Feathering — the technique that makes repairs invisible

Feathering is the most important skill in achieving a seamless wall repair, and it's the step most often skipped.

Each successive coat should be applied with a progressively wider knife, tapering the edges far out onto the existing wall to eliminate any noticeable ridge.

In practice:

• Use a 50 mm spatula for the initial fill.
• For the second coat (if required), switch to a 100–150 mm knife and extend the compound 50–100 mm beyond the repair perimeter on all sides.
• Feathering the edges of each layer blends the repair area into the surrounding wall, making it virtually invisible once painted.
• For a smooth finish, apply a final layer of joint compound and feather it out 150–300 mm from the original crack.

Step 5: Sand to a smooth finish

Once the filler is completely dry:

1. Use a fine-grit sanding sponge or sandpaper (120 to 180 grit) to remove high spots without creating deep scratches.
2. Sand with light pressure, focusing on the feathered edges and avoiding damage to the existing drywall paper.
3. After sanding, wipe the area with a damp cloth or tack cloth to remove all dust before priming.

For a final finishing pass, step up to 180–220 grit. The surface should feel uniform to the touch before any primer goes on.

Step 6: Clean the surface before priming

Before painting, clean dust and filler particles using Selleys Sugar Soap or Selleys Super Kleen. This removes residual oils, dust, and contamination that would compromise primer and paint adhesion. Allow the cleaned surface to dry fully before moving on.

Step 7: Prime before painting — don't skip this

Priming over a filled repair isn't optional. It's what determines whether your paint coat looks uniform or whether the filled area "flashes" — appearing as a dull, different-sheen patch — after painting.

Plasterboard is absorbent, so primer seals the surface, prevents patchy absorption, and improves adhesion. The same applies to filled areas in plaster — the filler has different porosity to the surrounding wall, and without primer, the topcoat absorbs unevenly regardless of how well the filling was done.

Repaired plaster requires a primer that bridges old and new surfaces. A water-based acrylic primer with good adhesion and flexibility is the right choice — it bonds to both the original plaster and the repair material, giving the topcoat a uniform base.

One common problem is paint peeling off plasterboard — this happens when the surface wasn't properly primed or sealed before painting. The fix is straightforward: always prime.

Priming protocol:

• Apply one coat of water-based acrylic primer to the filled area and an additional 50–100 mm beyond the repair perimeter.
• Allow to dry fully per the primer manufacturer's instructions (typically 1–2 hours).
• Lightly sand with 220-grit paper if any nibs or texture appear in the primer coat.
• Apply your topcoat.

Drying time reference table

Note: For applications more than 2 mm deep, or in cold or humid conditions, expect longer drying times. Never paint over filler that is still pink, grey, or tacky — it must be uniformly white and hard to the touch before sanding or painting.

Common mistakes that cause repairs to need redoing

1. Filling over loose plaster. If the substrate isn't sound, the filler pulls away with it. Always remove loose material first.
2. Applying too thick a single coat. Several thinner layers dry evenly and hold their shape. One thick coat doesn't.
3. Painting too soon. Rushing drying time between layers leads to shrinkage and cracking — and a repair that needs to be done again.
4. Skipping primer. Skipping this step results in uneven finishes, peeling paint, or poor adhesion. It's never worth the shortcut.
5. Using rigid filler at movement joints. Filler isn't flexible, so it's not suitable between surfaces subject to structural movement — use Selleys No More Gaps instead.

For a complete diagnosis of why fillers need redoing — including product mismatch, surface prep errors, and painting too soon — see our companion article: Why Your Filler Keeps Cracking, Shrinking, or Falling Out — and How to Fix It for Good.

Key takeaways

• Match the product to the damage size. Spakfilla Rapid handles hairline cracks and nail holes in a single pass; No More Cracks Plaster Filler is built for fine-to-medium cracks in plaster and plasterboard; Spakfilla Heavy Duty handles deeper repairs in 6 mm layers; the Wall Repair Kit addresses large holes that need backing support.
• Surface preparation isn't negotiable. All loose material, dust, and contamination must be removed before any filler goes on. Filling over an unsound surface is the single most common cause of repair failure.
• Layer and feather for invisible results. Deep repairs need multiple thin coats, each fully dried before the next. Feathering each coat progressively wider eliminates ridges and blends the repair into the surrounding wall.
• Respect drying times. Thin applications of Spakfilla Rapid can be sanded in approximately 30 minutes; deeper applications and humid conditions require significantly longer. Never paint over filler that hasn't fully cured.
• Always prime before painting. Filler and plasterboard are more porous than surrounding painted surfaces. Skipping primer causes patchy, uneven paint absorption and risks adhesion failure.

Conclusion

A properly filled and primed wall is the foundation of every successful interior paint job. The workflow in this guide — assess, prepare, fill in correctly sized layers, feather, sand, clean, and prime — applies whether you're touching up a single nail hole before repainting a bedroom or patching a series of settlement cracks across an entire room ahead of a full renovation.

The Selleys product range maps directly onto this workflow: Spakfilla Rapid for speed and simplicity on minor defects, No More Cracks Plaster Filler for plaster-specific adhesion on fine cracks, Spakfilla Heavy Duty for deeper and more demanding repairs, and the Wall Repair Kit for large voids that need structural backing. Use the right product at the right stage, don't shortcut the drying and priming steps, and the repair will last.

For repairs that extend beyond the wall surface into skirting boards, architraves, and timber trim, the techniques and product choices diverge significantly. See our guide on How to Repair and Fill Skirting Boards, Architraves, and Timber Trim Before Painting for the full workflow. And if you're working on exterior timber rather than interior walls, the considerations around waterproofing, UV resistance, and temperature cycling are covered in How to Repair Rotted, Damaged, or Split Exterior Timber with Selleys Wood Fillers.

References

• Selleys Australia. "Spakfilla Rapid — Product Information." Selleys.com.au, 2024. https://www.selleys.com.au/products/putty-and-fillers/wall-filler/selleys-spakfilla-rapid/

• Selleys Australia. "No More Cracks Plaster Filler — Product Information." Selleys.com.au, 2024. https://www.selleys.com.au/products/putty-and-fillers/wall-filler/no-more-cracks-plaster-filler/

• Selleys Australia. "Spakfilla Heavy Duty — Product Information." Selleys.com.au, 2024. https://www.selleys.com.au/products/putty-and-fillers/wall-filler/selleys-spakfilla-heavy-duty/

• Selleys Australia. "Spakfilla Wall Repair Kit — Product Information." Selleys.com.au, 2024. https://www.selleys.com.au/products/putty-and-fillers/wall-filler/spakfilla-wall-repair-kit/

• Owner Inspections Australia. "Typical Building Wall Defects and How to Prevent Them." OwnerInspections.com.au, February 2026. https://ownerinspections.com.au/articles/typical-building-wall-defects-and-how-to-prevent-them

• Raise and Re-Level. "The Complete Structural Guide to Cracked Walls in Australian Homes." RaiseandRelevel.com, December 2025. https://raiseandrelevel.com/the-complete-structural-guide-to-cracked-walls-in-australian-homes-causes-risks-repair-options/

• AAA Fast Plastering. "10 Common Plasterboard Wall Repair Mistakes." AAAFastPlastering.com.au, September 2024. https://aaafastplastering.com.au/plasterboard-wall-repair/

• Engineer Fix. "How to Repair Plasterboard Holes and Cracks." EngineerFix.com, November 2025. https://engineerfix.com/how-to-repair-plasterboard-holes-and-cracks/

• BeSafe Australia. "What Causes Cracks in Buildings?" BeSafe.com.au, September 2023. https://besafe.com.au/articles/cracks-in-buildings/

• Standards Australia. AS 2870: Residential Slabs and Footings. Standards Australia, current edition. https://www.standards.org.au

Frequently asked questions

What is Selleys Spakfilla Rapid best used for? Nail holes, pin holes, hairline cracks, and minor surface scratches.

Is Selleys Spakfilla Rapid suitable for exterior use? Yes, suitable for both interior and exterior use.

Does Selleys Spakfilla Rapid shrink after application? No, it is virtually non-shrinking.

How many coats does Selleys Spakfilla Rapid require? Only one application needed.

How long does Selleys Spakfilla Rapid take to dry in thin applications? Approximately 30 minutes.

How long before painting Spakfilla Rapid with water-based paint? Once completely set, approximately 30 minutes.

How long before painting Spakfilla Rapid with oil-based paint? 24 hours.

Is Selleys Spakfilla Rapid moisture resistant? Yes, moisture resistant.

Is Selleys Spakfilla Rapid mould resistant? Yes, mould resistant.

Is Selleys Spakfilla Rapid ready-mixed? Yes, ready-mixed out of the container.

What crack width is Spakfilla Rapid designed for? Hairline cracks under 1 mm.

What is Selleys No More Cracks Plaster Filler best used for? Fine to medium cracks, chips, dents, and shallow holes.

Is Selleys No More Cracks Plaster Filler for interior or exterior use? Interior use only.

What substrates is No More Cracks Plaster Filler suitable for? Plaster, plasterboard, and wallboard.

Does No More Cracks Plaster Filler require overfilling? No, minimum shrinkage means no overfilling needed.

How long does No More Cracks Plaster Filler take to dry in thin applications? 30 minutes.

How long before painting No More Cracks Plaster Filler with solvent-based paint? 24 hours.

Is No More Cracks Plaster Filler sandable? Yes, sandable in 30 minutes for thin applications.

What crack width suits No More Cracks Plaster Filler? Fine to medium cracks between 1 and 3 mm.

What is Selleys Spakfilla Heavy Duty best used for? Medium-to-deep repairs between 3 and 6 mm per layer.

What colour is Selleys Spakfilla Heavy Duty? Light grey.

What substrates can Spakfilla Heavy Duty be used on? Plaster, brick, concrete, wood, masonry, stone, and primed metal.

How thick can each layer of Spakfilla Heavy Duty be applied? Maximum 6 mm per layer.

How long does Spakfilla Heavy Duty take to dry per layer? 2 to 3 hours for 2 mm applications.

Can you paint over Spakfilla Heavy Duty with water-based paint immediately after setting? Yes, water-based paints may be applied immediately after filler has set.

How long before painting Spakfilla Heavy Duty with oil-based paint? 24 hours.

Is painting Spakfilla Heavy Duty with oil-based paint recommended before 24 hours? No, not recommended.

What is the Selleys Spakfilla Wall Repair Kit used for? Holes and cracks up to approximately 80 mm wide.

What does the Selleys Spakfilla Wall Repair Kit include? Patch, filler, spatula, and sanding block.

What filler is included in the Spakfilla Wall Repair Kit? Spakfilla Rapid.

Is the Spakfilla Wall Repair Kit for interior or exterior use? Interior walls, ceilings, and plasterboard.

What minimum hole size requires a backing patch? Holes greater than 25 mm wide.

What is the maximum hole size the Wall Repair Kit handles? Approximately 80 mm wide.

What crack width requires a structural engineer assessment? Cracks greater than 25 mm.

Should diagonal cracks at door or window corners be filled immediately? No, arrange a building inspection first.

Can cracks up to 5 mm be safely patched and painted? Yes.

What sandpaper grit is recommended for sanding dried filler? 120 to 180 grit.

What grit sandpaper is used for the final finishing pass? 180 to 220 grit.

Should you overfill when applying Spakfilla Rapid? No, a flush application is sufficient.

What technique makes wall repairs invisible under paint? Feathering each coat progressively wider.

What spatula size is recommended for initial filling? 50 mm spatula.

What spatula size is recommended for feathering? 100 to 150 mm knife.

How far should feathering extend beyond the repair perimeter? 50 to 100 mm beyond on all sides.

Should you apply one thick coat for deep repairs? No, apply several thinner layers.

What product should be used at movement joints instead of filler? Selleys No More Gaps.

Is primer required before painting a filled repair? Yes, always prime before painting.

Why is priming over filled repairs necessary? Filler is more porous than surrounding painted surfaces.

What happens if you skip primer over plasterboard? Patchy, uneven paint absorption and risk of adhesion failure.

What type of primer is recommended for filled plaster repairs? Water-based acrylic primer.

How far beyond the repair should primer be applied? An additional 50 to 100 mm beyond the repair perimeter.

Should you sand the primer coat before applying topcoat? Yes, lightly sand with 220-grit if nibs appear.

What cleaning product should be used before priming? Selleys Sugar Soap or Selleys Super Kleen.

What is the most common cause of wall repair failure? Filling over loose or unsound substrate.

What must be removed before applying any filler? All loose material, dust, and contamination.

Should you fill over an active structural crack? No, filler will re-crack within weeks.

What causes settlement cracks in Australian homes? Expansion and contraction from temperature, rain, and soil movement.

When do settlement cracks typically appear in new homes? Within the first two to five years.

Which Australian cities are most affected by reactive clay soil cracking? Melbourne, Adelaide, and parts of Sydney and Brisbane.

What does a hollow sound when tapping plaster indicate? The plaster key has failed.

Should you widen a crack slightly before filling? Yes, to create a clean edge and mechanical key.

Must the surface be dry before applying filler? Yes, surfaces must be completely dry.

What causes paint to peel off plasterboard? Surface not properly primed or sealed before painting.

Should filler be painted over while still pink or tacky? No, it must be uniformly white and hard to the touch.

What indicates filler is fully dry and ready for painting? Uniformly white and hard to the touch.

Does humidity affect filler drying time? Yes, cold or humid conditions require longer drying times.

Can Spakfilla Heavy Duty be applied in a single thick coat for deep repairs? No, must be applied in 6 mm layers.

What is the primary purpose of the mesh patch in the Wall Repair Kit? Provides structural backing where no solid substrate exists behind the hole.

Is Selleys Spakfilla Rapid a ready-mixed product? Yes, ready-mixed and lightweight.

How long has Selleys been providing wall repair solutions? Over 80 years.

Label facts summary

Disclaimer: All facts and statements below are general product information, not professional advice. Consult relevant experts for specific guidance.

Verified label facts

Selleys Spakfilla Rapid

• Ready-mixed, lightweight filler
• Suitable for interior and exterior use
• Virtually non-shrinking
• Non-cracking
• Requires only one application
• Moisture resistant
• Mould resistant
• Drying time (thin applications): approximately 30 minutes
• Water-based paint: apply once completely set (~30 minutes)
• Oil-based paint: allow 24 hours before painting
• Suitable for: nail holes, pin holes, hairline cracks, minor surface scratches
• Designed for hairline cracks under 1 mm

Selleys No More Cracks Plaster Filler

• Ready to use
• Fast drying
• Lightweight filler
• Interior use only
• Suitable substrates: plaster, plasterboard, wallboard
• Suitable for: holes, cracks, chips, and dents
• Minimum shrinkage (no overfilling required)
• Sandable in 30 minutes (thin applications)
• Water clean-up
• Drying time (thin applications): 30 minutes
• Solvent-based paint: allow 24 hours before painting
• Designed for fine to medium cracks between 1 and 3 mm

Selleys Spakfilla Heavy Duty

• Ready-mixed
• Colour: light grey
• Multi-purpose filler
• Suitable substrates: plaster, brick, concrete, wood, masonry, stone, and primed metal
• Maximum application depth per layer: 6 mm
• Drying time: 2–3 hours for 2 mm applications
• Water-based paint: may be applied immediately after filler has set
• Oil-based paint: not recommended until 24 hours after application
• Designed for medium-to-deep repairs (3–6 mm per layer)

Selleys Spakfilla Wall Repair Kit

• Kit contents: patch, filler (Spakfilla Rapid), spatula, sanding block
• Repairs holes and cracks up to approximately 80 mm wide
• Backing patch required for holes greater than 25 mm wide
• Suitable for: interior walls, ceilings, and plasterboard

General application specifications (from label/manufacturer documentation)

• Recommended sandpaper grit for dried filler: 120–180 grit
• Recommended grit for final finishing pass: 180–220 grit
• Primer application zone: 50–100 mm beyond repair perimeter
• Feathering extension: 50–100 mm beyond repair perimeter on all sides
• Cracks greater than 25 mm: structural engineer assessment required before filling
• Drying indicator: filler must be uniformly white and hard to the touch before sanding or painting
• Cracks up to 5 mm: can be patched and painted

General product claims

• Spakfilla Rapid delivers "professional results on everyday repairs"
• Spakfilla Rapid described as "the everyday go-to for pre-paint touch-ups — fast, reliable, and ready to perform"
• No More Cracks Plaster Filler described as having "superior plaster adhesion" making it the "preferred choice over general-purpose fillers when working on traditional plaster walls"
• Spakfilla Heavy Duty described as "tough and durable" and able to "handle the toughest repair jobs across the widest range of materials"
• Spakfilla Heavy Duty described as delivering "strength" when "the job demands it"
• Wall Repair Kit described as delivering "professional results" in "one kit, one visit"
• Selleys described as having "delivered solutions that work the first time, every time" for "over 80 years"
• Feathering described as "the single most important skill in achieving a seamless wall repair"
• Priming described as "never optional" and as the step that "determines whether your paint coat looks uniform"
• Skipping primer characterised as "never worth the shortcut"
• Correct product selection and technique described as what "separates a professional-looking result from a patch that cracks again in six months"