{
  "id": "automotive-care-detailing",
  "title": "Automotive Care & Detailing",
  "slug": "automotive-care-detailing",
  "description": "Selleys is an iconic Australian brand established in 1939, specializing in high-quality adhesives, sealants, fillers, silicones, glues, cleaning products, and home improvement solutions for both DIY enthusiasts and trade professionals, with a focus on innovation, reliability, and products that deliver superior results for repairs, construction, and maintenance tasks.",
  "category": "",
  "content": "## AI Summary\n\n**Product:** Automotive Care & Detailing Guide\n**Brand:** Selleys\n**Category:** Automotive Care, Detailing, Adhesives & Sealants\n**Primary Use:** Comprehensive guidance on vehicle exterior, interior, mechanical, and repair care using Selleys automotive products\n\n### Quick Facts\n- **Best For:** DIY vehicle owners, weekend detailers, and professional detailers seeking structured automotive care guidance\n- **Key Benefit:** Protects vehicle investment, maintains appearance, and delivers professional results using proven Selleys solutions\n- **Form Factor:** Multi-product range including sprays, liquids, pastes, adhesives, sealants, and coatings\n- **Application Method:** Varies by task — spray, wipe, brush, bond, or coat depending on product and surface\n\n### Common Questions This Guide Answers\n1. How often should I wax my vehicle? → Every three to four months under normal conditions; every two months in harsh climates (high UV, coastal salt, extreme heat)\n2. What is the correct order for a full exterior detail? → Wash → decontaminate (clay bar) → polish → wax or sealant; skipping or reversing steps produces inferior results\n3. Can I use household cleaners on my vehicle? → No — household cleaners strip protective coatings, damage tints, and accelerate wear; always use automotive-specific products\n4. How often should leather seats be conditioned? → At least every three months; more frequently in hot or dry climates\n5. Is rust converter a permanent solution? → No — it stops active rust and stabilises the surface but must be overcoated with primer and topcoat for lasting protection\n6. What adhesive should be used for windscreen bonding? → Polyurethane-based adhesive; it delivers structural strength, flexibility, and adhesion to glass and painted surfaces\n7. Should I clean tyres before or after the rest of the vehicle? → Before — prevents brake dust and grime from splashing onto clean paintwork\n\n---\n\n## Automotive Care & Detailing\n\nKeeping your vehicle in top condition takes the right products and the right approach. Whether you're a professional detailer or handling weekend maintenance yourself, Selleys has the proven solutions to get the job done — properly, the first time.\n\n---\n\n## Why automotive care matters\n\nYour vehicle takes a beating. Sun, rain, road grime, and everyday wear all work against the finish, seals, and surfaces you depend on. Staying on top of automotive care protects your investment, keeps the vehicle looking good, and ensures everything performs as it should. With 80+ years of expertise behind every product, Selleys gives you the confidence to tackle any automotive care task — from a full exterior detail to targeted repairs — and walk away satisfied with the result.\n\n---\n\n## Exterior care\n\n### Paintwork protection\n\nYour vehicle's paint is its first line of defence against the elements. Protecting it properly means the difference between a finish that stays sharp for years and one that fades, chips, and corrodes ahead of its time.\n\n**What works:**\n\n- **Wash regularly.** Road contaminants, bird droppings, and tree sap are acidic. Left on the surface, they eat into the clear coat. A proper wash removes them before damage sets in.\n- **Clay bar treatment** removes embedded contaminants that washing alone won't shift. The result is a smooth, clean surface ready for protection.\n- **Polish** restores gloss and removes light surface scratches and oxidation. Use a quality automotive polish and work in sections for consistent results.\n- **Wax or sealant** locks in the finish and shields the paint from UV, moisture, and environmental fallout. Apply after polishing for maximum protection.\n\n**Pro tip:** Work in the shade. Direct sunlight heats the panel surface, causing products to dry too fast and leaving uneven residue.\n\n---\n\n### Windscreen & glass\n\nClear visibility is a safety essential. Keeping glass clean and well-maintained is one of the most important parts of vehicle care.\n\n**Glass care done right:**\n\n- Use a dedicated automotive glass cleaner. Household glass cleaners often contain ammonia, which damages window tints and rubber seals over time.\n- Apply in straight strokes, not circular, to avoid smearing.\n- Keep wiper blades clean. Dirty blades drag grit across the glass and cause scratches.\n- For chips and cracks, act fast. Small chips spread. A windscreen repair kit handles minor damage before it becomes a major replacement job.\n\n**Selleys solution:** [Selleys Glass Cleaner](https://www.selleys.com.au) cuts through road film, insect residue, and grime to deliver streak-free clarity every time.\n\n---\n\n### Tyres & wheel arches\n\nTyres and wheel arches collect the worst of what the road throws at your vehicle — brake dust, mud, oil, and road tar. Keeping them clean protects the rubber and gives the whole vehicle a sharper, more finished look.\n\n**The right approach:**\n\n- Clean tyres and wheels before the rest of the vehicle. This prevents brake dust and grime from splashing onto clean paintwork.\n- Use a dedicated wheel cleaner formulated for your wheel type — alloy, chrome, or painted.\n- Apply tyre dressing after cleaning to restore a deep, even finish and protect the rubber from UV cracking.\n- Check tyre sidewalls regularly for cracking or bulging. Early detection prevents serious issues on the road.\n\n---\n\n## Interior care\n\n### Upholstery & fabric\n\nThe interior gets daily use — and it shows. Spills, dirt, and wear accumulate over time. Staying on top of interior care keeps the cabin looking sharp and extends the life of every surface.\n\n**Fabric seats and carpets:**\n\n- Vacuum thoroughly before applying any cleaning product. Scrubbing loose dirt into fabric makes stains worse.\n- Use a dedicated automotive upholstery cleaner. Agitate with a soft brush, then blot — don't rub — to lift the stain out.\n- For stubborn stains, a second application gets the result. Work the product in, let it dwell, then extract.\n- Allow fabric to dry fully before use to prevent mould and mildew.\n\n**Leather seats:**\n\nLeather is durable, but it dries out and cracks without proper care.\n\n- Clean with a pH-balanced leather cleaner to remove surface grime without stripping the leather's natural oils.\n- Condition at least every three months, more often in hot or dry climates. Conditioning keeps the leather supple and prevents cracking.\n- Avoid silicone-based products. They create a greasy surface that attracts dust and causes long-term deterioration.\n\n---\n\n### Dashboard & hard surfaces\n\nThe dashboard, door trims, and centre console are constantly exposed to UV light and heat — two of the most damaging forces for interior plastics and vinyl.\n\n**Keeping hard surfaces in good shape:**\n\n- Wipe down with a damp microfibre cloth to remove dust and surface grime.\n- Use a dedicated interior detailer or trim dressing to restore colour and add UV protection.\n- Avoid high-gloss dashboard products. They create reflections on the windscreen that reduce visibility and compromise safety.\n- For textured plastics, use a soft brush to work product into the grain for even coverage.\n\n---\n\n### Odour elimination\n\nA clean vehicle should smell as good as it looks. Odours from food, pets, smoke, and moisture need to be eliminated at the source, not masked.\n\n**What actually works:**\n\n- Identify and remove the source first. No product eliminates odour if the cause is still present — a damp mat, a food spill under the seat, or a mouldy boot liner.\n- Use an automotive odour eliminator that neutralises odour molecules rather than covering them with fragrance.\n- For persistent odours, an ozone treatment delivers thorough, lasting results — particularly effective for smoke and pet smells.\n- Keep the interior ventilated. Moisture is the primary driver of musty odours in vehicle cabins.\n\n---\n\n## Underbonnet & mechanical areas\n\n### Engine bay cleaning\n\nA clean engine bay makes it easier to spot leaks, check fluid levels, and carry out routine maintenance. It also helps with heat dissipation and protects components from corrosive buildup.\n\n**Engine bay cleaning — done safely:**\n\n- Let the engine cool completely before starting. Spraying cold water or cleaner onto a hot engine causes thermal shock and can damage components.\n- Cover sensitive electrical components — the alternator, fuse box, and air intake — before applying any water or cleaner.\n- Use a dedicated engine degreaser to break down oil and grease buildup. Apply, allow to dwell, then rinse with low-pressure water.\n- Dry thoroughly with compressed air or a clean cloth. Moisture left in the engine bay can cause corrosion and electrical issues.\n- Apply a plastic and rubber protectant to hoses, seals, and trim to restore appearance and add protection.\n\n---\n\n### Rust prevention & treatment\n\nRust is one of the most destructive forces a vehicle faces. Left unchecked, it spreads through panels, structural components, and mechanical parts — turning a minor surface issue into a serious structural problem.\n\n**Staying ahead of rust:**\n\n- Inspect the vehicle regularly, particularly the undercarriage, wheel arches, door sills, and boot floor. These are the areas where moisture and road salt accumulate.\n- Treat surface rust immediately. The longer it's left, the deeper it penetrates.\n- Use a rust converter on affected areas before applying a protective coating. Rust converter chemically transforms iron oxide into a stable compound, stopping the spread.\n- Apply a rust-inhibiting primer and topcoat to repaired areas for lasting protection.\n- For the undercarriage, a rubberised underbody coating provides superior protection against road impact, moisture, and corrosion.\n\n**Selleys solution:** [Selleys Rust Converter](https://www.selleys.com.au) stops rust and prepares the surface for a durable, protective finish — professional results without the workshop bill.\n\n---\n\n## Sealing & adhesive applications\n\n### Weather seals & door seals\n\nWeather seals keep water, wind, and road noise out of the cabin. When they deteriorate, the results are immediate — water ingress, draughts, and increased interior noise.\n\n**Maintaining and replacing weather seals:**\n\n- Inspect seals regularly for cracking, compression set, or gaps. Run your hand along the seal while the door is open — you'll feel any areas that have lost their shape.\n- Clean seals with a mild cleaner and apply a rubber conditioner to keep them supple and extend their service life.\n- For seals that have lost their effectiveness, a flexible automotive sealant restores the barrier. Apply to the affected area, allow to cure fully, and the seal performs like new.\n- When replacing seals entirely, use a contact adhesive rated for rubber and automotive use to ensure a permanent, reliable bond.\n\n**Selleys solution:** [Selleys Roof & Gutter Silicone](https://www.selleys.com.au) — flexible, waterproof, and built to handle the temperature extremes that automotive seals face every day.\n\n---\n\n### Windscreen & glass bonding\n\nWindscreen installation and glass bonding demand a high-performance adhesive that cures to a structural bond. This is not the place to cut corners.\n\n**What the job demands:**\n\n- Use a polyurethane-based windscreen adhesive. Polyurethane delivers the structural strength, flexibility, and adhesion to glass and painted surfaces that this application requires.\n- Surface preparation is everything. Clean both the glass and the frame with a dedicated primer/activator before applying adhesive. Contaminated surfaces prevent full adhesion.\n- Apply adhesive in a continuous, consistent bead with no gaps. Gaps in the bead create leak points.\n- Observe the safe drive-away time specified by the adhesive manufacturer. The adhesive needs to reach sufficient cure strength before the vehicle is driven — this is a structural safety requirement.\n\n---\n\n### Interior trim & panel adhesion\n\nKeeping interior trim panels, headliners, and components properly bonded prevents rattles, sagging, and the worn look that comes from panels pulling away from their mounting surfaces.\n\n**Getting a lasting bond:**\n\n- Remove the component if possible. Bonding in place is workable, but full surface access gives you a stronger, more even bond.\n- Clean both surfaces thoroughly. Dust, oil, and old adhesive residue all prevent proper bonding.\n- Use a contact adhesive for trim and upholstery. Apply to both surfaces, allow to become touch-dry, then bring the surfaces together with firm, even pressure.\n- For headliners, work from the centre outward to avoid bubbles and wrinkles. A headliner bonded correctly lies flat and stays flat.\n\n**Selleys solution:** [Selleys Kwik Grip](https://www.selleys.com.au) — the trusted contact adhesive for automotive trim, upholstery, and panel bonding. Strong, reliable, and built for the job.\n\n---\n\n## Surface repair & preparation\n\n### Scratch & chip repair\n\nStone chips and light scratches are a fact of life for any vehicle. Left unattended, they allow moisture to reach bare metal and start the rust process. Addressing them promptly keeps the damage contained and the finish intact.\n\n**The repair process:**\n\n1. **Clean the area** — remove all wax, polish, and contaminants from around the chip or scratch.\n2. **Assess the depth** — if the scratch goes through to bare metal, it needs a primer coat before colour is applied. If it's in the clear coat only, a polish may be all that's needed.\n3. **Apply touch-up paint** — use the correct colour code for your vehicle. Apply in thin layers, allowing each coat to dry fully before the next.\n4. **Blend and finish** — once the repair has cured, polish the surrounding area to blend the repair into the existing finish.\n5. **Protect** — apply a wax or sealant over the repaired area to lock in the finish.\n\n**Pro tip:** A toothpick or fine brush gives you precise control when applying touch-up paint to small chips, preventing the over-application that makes repairs visible.\n\n---\n\n### Body filler & panel repair\n\nFor dents, deep scratches, and damaged panels, body filler delivers a smooth, workable surface that can be shaped, sanded, and finished to match the surrounding panel.\n\n**Working with body filler:**\n\n- The panel must be clean, dry, and free of rust before filler is applied. Filler applied over rust or contamination will lift and fail.\n- Mix filler and hardener thoroughly according to the manufacturer's ratio. Under-mixed filler won't cure properly; over-catalysed filler sets too fast to work.\n- Apply in thin layers. Thick applications trap air, cause shrinkage, and produce a repair that doesn't hold long-term.\n- Sand progressively — start with coarser grit to shape, finish with fine grit for a smooth surface ready for primer.\n- Prime before painting. Primer seals the filler, improves paint adhesion, and reveals any surface imperfections before the topcoat goes on.\n\n---\n\n### Primer & paint preparation\n\nThe quality of any paint job is determined by the preparation underneath. Rushing it produces a finish that looks good initially but chips, peels, and fades ahead of its time.\n\n**Preparation done right:**\n\n- Sand the surface to the correct profile for the primer being used. Primer needs mechanical adhesion — a smooth, shiny surface won't hold.\n- Apply primer in thin, even coats. Allow each coat to dry before applying the next.\n- Sand between coats with fine-grit paper to remove dust nibs and surface imperfections.\n- Wipe down with a tack cloth before applying the topcoat to remove all dust.\n- In humid or cold conditions, allow additional drying time. Topcoat applied over insufficiently cured primer traps solvents and causes adhesion issues.\n\n---\n\n## Maintenance tips for long-term results\n\nGood results come from good habits as much as good products. These practices keep your vehicle in peak condition year-round.\n\n### Regular inspection schedule\n\n- **Weekly:** Check tyre pressure and condition, fluid levels, and the exterior for new chips or damage.\n- **Monthly:** Inspect seals and weather strips, clean interior surfaces, check underbonnet for leaks or buildup.\n- **Seasonally:** Full exterior detail including clay bar, polish, and wax; leather conditioning; underbody inspection for rust.\n- **Annually:** Comprehensive inspection of all seals, adhesives, and protective coatings. Replace or reapply where needed.\n\n---\n\n### Product storage & care\n\nGetting the most from your automotive care products means storing and handling them correctly.\n\n- Store products in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight. Heat and UV exposure degrade performance over time.\n- Keep lids and caps sealed tightly. Exposure to air causes solvents to evaporate and adhesives to skin over.\n- Check expiry dates on adhesives and sealants. Products used past their shelf life won't deliver the performance the job demands.\n- Keep products out of reach of children and away from heat sources and open flame.\n\n---\n\n### Choosing the right product for the job\n\nMatching the right product to the task is straightforward when you know what to look for.\n\n| Task | Product Type | Key Requirement |\n|---|---|---|\n| Paint protection | Wax / sealant | UV resistance, durability |\n| Glass cleaning | Automotive glass cleaner | Ammonia-free, streak-free |\n| Leather care | Leather cleaner + conditioner | pH-balanced, silicone-free |\n| Rust treatment | Rust converter + primer | Chemical conversion, adhesion |\n| Trim bonding | Contact adhesive | Flexible, heat-resistant |\n| Windscreen sealing | Polyurethane sealant | Structural strength, flexibility |\n| Weather seal repair | Flexible silicone sealant | Waterproof, temperature-stable |\n| Body repair | Body filler | Workable, sandable, stable |\n\n---\n\n## Frequently asked questions\n\n**How often should I wax my vehicle?**\nEvery three to four months delivers consistent protection for most conditions. In harsh climates — high UV, coastal salt air, or extreme heat — wax every two months to maintain the protective barrier.\n\n**Can I use household cleaning products on my vehicle?**\nStick to automotive-specific products. Household cleaners are formulated for different surfaces and pH ranges. On vehicle paintwork, glass, and interior materials, they can strip protective coatings, damage tints, and accelerate wear.\n\n**What's the right order for a full exterior detail?**\nWash → decontaminate (clay bar) → polish → wax/sealant. Each step prepares the surface for the next. Skipping steps or reversing the order produces inferior results and wastes product.\n\n**How do I know if a seal needs replacing or just conditioning?**\nIf the seal is still intact but has dried out and lost flexibility, conditioning restores it. If it's cracked, torn, compressed flat, or has gaps, replacement is the right call. A conditioned seal that's structurally compromised won't provide a reliable barrier.\n\n**Is rust converter a permanent solution?**\nRust converter stops active rust and stabilises the surface for painting. It's not a standalone finish — it needs to be overcoated with primer and topcoat for lasting protection. Used correctly as part of a full repair process, it holds.\n\n---\n\n## Get the job done right\n\nEvery vehicle deserves proper care. Whether you're maintaining a daily driver, restoring a project car, or keeping a fleet in top condition, the right products and the right approach make all the difference.\n\nSelleys has been delivering proven solutions for over 80 years. From rust treatment to trim adhesion, glass sealing to paint preparation — if it's Selleys, it works.\n\n**Explore the full Selleys automotive range:** [www.selleys.com.au](https://www.selleys.com.au)\n\n---\n\n## Frequently asked questions — detailed reference\n\nHow often should I wax my vehicle in normal conditions: Every three to four months\n\nHow often should I wax in harsh climates: Every two months\n\nDoes high UV exposure require more frequent waxing: Yes\n\nDoes coastal salt air require more frequent waxing: Yes\n\nCan I use household glass cleaner on my car windows: No\n\nWhy can't I use household glass cleaner on car windows: It often contains ammonia\n\nDoes ammonia damage window tints: Yes\n\nDoes ammonia damage rubber seals: Yes\n\nShould I use automotive-specific products on paintwork: Yes\n\nCan household cleaners strip protective coatings from paint: Yes\n\nWhat is the correct order for a full exterior detail: Wash, decontaminate, polish, then wax\n\nShould I clay bar before or after polishing: Before polishing\n\nShould I polish before or after waxing: Before waxing\n\nCan I skip steps in the exterior detail process: No, skipping steps produces inferior results\n\nWhat does clay bar treatment remove: Embedded contaminants washing alone won't shift\n\nWhat does polishing do to paintwork: Restores gloss and removes light scratches and oxidation\n\nWhat does wax or sealant do to paintwork: Shields paint from UV, moisture, and environmental fallout\n\nShould I work in direct sunlight when applying paint products: No\n\nWhy should I avoid direct sunlight when detailing: Heat causes products to dry too fast\n\nDoes working in shade improve detailing results: Yes, it prevents uneven residue\n\nShould I clean tyres before or after the rest of the vehicle: Before\n\nWhy should tyres be cleaned first: Prevents brake dust splashing onto clean paintwork\n\nShould I use a dedicated wheel cleaner: Yes\n\nDoes tyre dressing protect against UV cracking: Yes\n\nWhat does tyre dressing restore: A deep, even finish on rubber\n\nShould I vacuum fabric seats before applying cleaner: Yes\n\nWhy vacuum before applying upholstery cleaner: Scrubbing loose dirt into fabric worsens stains\n\nShould I rub or blot to remove upholstery stains: Blot, not rub\n\nHow often should leather seats be conditioned: At least every three months\n\nShould leather be conditioned more often in hot climates: Yes\n\nShould I use silicone-based products on leather: No\n\nWhy avoid silicone-based products on leather: They attract dust and cause long-term deterioration\n\nShould I use a pH-balanced cleaner on leather: Yes\n\nWhy use pH-balanced cleaner on leather: Avoids stripping the leather's natural oils\n\nShould I use high-gloss products on the dashboard: No\n\nWhy avoid high-gloss dashboard products: They create windscreen reflections that reduce visibility\n\nDoes UV light damage interior plastics and vinyl: Yes\n\nShould I let the engine cool before cleaning the engine bay: Yes\n\nWhy let the engine cool before cleaning: Spraying cold water on a hot engine causes thermal shock\n\nShould I cover electrical components before cleaning the engine bay: Yes\n\nWhich components need covering during engine bay cleaning: Alternator, fuse box, and air intake\n\nShould I use high or low pressure water to rinse the engine bay: Low pressure\n\nCan moisture left in the engine bay cause problems: Yes\n\nWhat problems does moisture cause in the engine bay: Corrosion and electrical issues\n\nShould surface rust be treated immediately: Yes\n\nWhat happens if rust is left untreated: It penetrates deeper and spreads\n\nWhat does rust converter do chemically: Transforms iron oxide into a stable compound\n\nIs rust converter a standalone finish: No\n\nWhat must be applied over rust converter: Primer and topcoat\n\nWhere does rust most commonly accumulate on a vehicle: Undercarriage, wheel arches, door sills, and boot floor\n\nDoes a rubberised underbody coating protect against road impact: Yes\n\nDoes a rubberised underbody coating protect against moisture: Yes\n\nShould I use polyurethane or silicone adhesive for windscreen bonding: Polyurethane\n\nWhy use polyurethane for windscreen bonding: It delivers structural strength and flexibility\n\nIs surface preparation important for windscreen bonding: Yes\n\nWhat happens if surfaces are contaminated before windscreen bonding: Full adhesion is prevented\n\nShould adhesive be applied in a continuous bead for windscreen installation: Yes\n\nWhat do gaps in the windscreen adhesive bead cause: Leak points\n\nMust I observe the safe drive-away time after windscreen installation: Yes\n\nWhy is safe drive-away time a requirement: The adhesive must reach sufficient cure strength for safety\n\nIs safe drive-away time a structural safety requirement: Yes\n\nWhat adhesive type is recommended for interior trim bonding: Contact adhesive\n\nShould both surfaces be coated when using contact adhesive: Yes\n\nWhen do you join surfaces when using contact adhesive: After both coats become touch-dry\n\nShould a headliner be bonded from the centre outward: Yes\n\nWhy bond a headliner from the centre outward: To avoid bubbles and wrinkles\n\nShould a scratch reaching bare metal be primed before touch-up paint: Yes\n\nIs polishing sufficient for scratches only in the clear coat: Yes\n\nShould touch-up paint be applied in thin or thick layers: Thin layers\n\nWhat tool gives precise control for applying touch-up paint to small chips: A toothpick or fine brush\n\nShould body filler be applied over rust: No\n\nShould body filler be applied in thin or thick layers: Thin layers\n\nWhy avoid thick applications of body filler: They trap air and cause shrinkage\n\nWhat grit progression should be used when sanding body filler: Start coarse, finish with fine grit\n\nShould primer be applied before painting repaired areas: Yes\n\nWhat does primer do before topcoat application: Seals filler and improves paint adhesion\n\nCan topcoat be applied over insufficiently cured primer: No\n\nWhat does applying topcoat over wet primer cause: Trapped solvents and adhesion issues\n\nShould additional drying time be allowed in humid conditions: Yes\n\nShould automotive care products be stored: In a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight\n\nDoes heat exposure degrade product performance: Yes\n\nDoes UV exposure degrade product performance: Yes\n\nShould lids be kept sealed on automotive products: Yes\n\nWhy keep lids sealed on adhesives: Exposure to air causes solvents to evaporate and adhesives to skin over\n\nShould expired adhesives and sealants be used: No\n\nCan a dried-out but structurally intact seal be restored by conditioning: Yes\n\nShould a cracked or compressed seal be conditioned or replaced: Replaced\n\nDoes a conditioned but structurally compromised seal provide a reliable barrier: No\n\nHow frequently should tyre pressure be checked: Weekly\n\nHow frequently should fluid levels be checked: Weekly\n\nHow frequently should interior surfaces be cleaned: Monthly\n\nHow frequently should seals and weather strips be inspected: Monthly\n\nHow frequently should a full exterior detail be performed: Seasonally\n\nHow frequently should leather conditioning be performed: Seasonally\n\nHow frequently should an underbody rust inspection be performed: Seasonally\n\nHow frequently should all seals and adhesives be comprehensively inspected: Annually\n\nShould small windscreen chips be repaired promptly: Yes\n\nWhy repair windscreen chips promptly: Small chips spread and become major replacements\n\nShould glass cleaner be applied in circular or straight strokes: Straight strokes\n\nWhy apply glass cleaner in straight strokes: To avoid smearing\n\nShould wiper blades be kept clean: Yes\n\nWhat do dirty wiper blades cause: Scratches from dragging grit across glass\n\nHow many years of expertise does Selleys have: Over 80 years\n\n---\n\n---\n\n## Label facts summary\n\n> **Disclaimer:** All facts and statements below are general product information, not professional advice. Consult relevant experts for specific guidance.\n\n### Verified label facts\n\nNo Product Facts table or product packaging data (ingredients, certifications, dimensions, weight, GTIN/MPN, or technical specifications) was present in the analysed content. No verifiable label facts can be extracted.\n\n### General product claims\n\n- Selleys has over 80 years of expertise in delivering automotive care solutions\n- Selleys Glass Cleaner cuts through road film, insect residue, and grime to deliver streak-free clarity\n- Selleys Rust Converter stops rust and prepares the surface for a durable, protective finish\n- Selleys Roof & Gutter Silicone is described as flexible, waterproof, and built to handle automotive temperature extremes\n- Selleys Kwik Grip is described as a trusted contact adhesive for automotive trim, upholstery, and panel bonding\n- Waxing every three to four months delivers consistent protection under normal conditions\n- Waxing every two months is recommended in harsh climates (high UV, coastal salt air, extreme heat)\n- Leather seats should be conditioned at least every three months, more often in hot or dry climates\n- Tyre dressing protects rubber from UV cracking\n- Rust converter chemically transforms iron oxide into a stable compound, stopping rust spread\n- Polyurethane-based windscreen adhesive delivers structural strength, flexibility, and adhesion to glass and painted surfaces\n- A rubberised underbody coating provides protection against road impact, moisture, and corrosion\n- Contact adhesive applied to both surfaces and joined when touch-dry produces a strong, lasting bond\n- Household glass cleaners often contain ammonia, which damages window tints and rubber seals\n- High-gloss dashboard products create windscreen reflections that reduce visibility\n- Silicone-based products on leather attract dust and cause long-term deterioration\n- Applying topcoat over insufficiently cured primer traps solvents and causes adhesion issues\n- Heat and UV exposure degrade automotive care product performance over time\n- A structurally compromised seal will not provide a reliable barrier regardless of conditioning",
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